There is a reason why there is a section on my blog called “Musings & Senior Moments” and that reason is this:
I’m going to talk about toilet repair.
Dick just replaced the insides of one of our toilets, so I carefully watched, took notes, and this is how I would do it – hope this helps you.
Commodes are made of ceramic or porcelian, and there really is no part of a commode that “wears-out”. Unless it has become cracked, a commode – toilet – will last forever.
1. Turn off the water to the toilet. Usually a little handle that is to the left and under the water tank of your toilet…turn clockwise to shut off. If you don’t have a turn off here, you may want to have a plumber come in and put one there for you. This will cost you – and while handy, isn’t necessary, however, once the plumber is there, have him install the new “guts”. We haven’t had a plumber in one of our houses – almost forever…because Dick and I try to do everything ourselves. A good way to find a reliable plumber is to ask a friend. Now – back to doing it your self – another way to turn the water off is at the main supply source, outside. You may need a tool called a key – most hardware stores carry then, and they’re cheap.
2. So, once you have turned the water off, you’re ready to go. Flush the toilet. Lift the lid of the water tank. When it’s emptied out, soak the rest of the water that is standing with a bath towel. Place a bowl under the water tank, where the water comes out of the wall and goes into the water tank. And now, you will reach under the tank and unscrew the plastic nut (clockwise) that is holding the water line to the tank. You’ll probably get a few drips, that’s why you need that bowl.
3. The water line, leading from the wall to the water tank, hopefully is flexible. If it’s a solid pipe, again, unless you’re familiar with cutting and gluing pipe, a plumber may be in order.
4. Now, look inside the water tank again. Lift the whole inside contraption – the thingy that holds the other thingy that raises and lowers with the water level – You’re going to take the whole thing – the water control unit – out of the tank.
5. There’s a little hose that’s connected to a standing water pipe (overflow) so disconnect that – usually connected with a little metal clip.
6. Place the new water control unit into the hole at the bottom of the tank – it will be adjustable, so check for water level. You can usually tell how high that should be from some hard water line on your tank. There will be some way to adjust the “control unit” to match that water line – sometimes you just push and twist – it’s easy. So, you’ve matched the water line that will be marked on the thingy to the water line that you can see in the tank. Place the thingy into the hole at the bottom again, and tighten the nut under the tank to secure the new unit.
7. Now, you need to connect the water supply line (underneath) that comes in from the wall to the tank. There will be a rubber washer on the line, and so you just push the supply up into the tank, slide the washer up to the tank opening and slide the washer up to that and tighten. Make sure you put it in straight, so you don’t strip the threads.
8. Inside the tank again, connect the little flexible tube to the standing water pipe with the little metal (usually) clip. You may have to cut the tube a little shorter, but don’t over do it. The little metal clip just slides over the standing water pipe.
9. Underneath, now turn the water back on from underneath and cross your fingers, and if you’ve done it well, you’ll have no leaks. We always place a clean paper towel under the toilet, and if there are any drips, you’ll see them. Then, you may have to tighten the nut.
And – all of this should probably take you less than half an hour!
